Krakow, Poland; Auschwitz-Birkenau

We arrive in Krakow in the morning, sleeping on the train was everything I expected – I loved it, and would love to do it again! We take our luggage to left luggage lockers (William is great to travel with, he has traveled overseas enough to have an innate understanding of navigation for train stations, and all forms of public transport), and figure out which train to take to get to the first stop on the Poland experience – Auschwitz-Birkenau, a must experience. When William and I were in Washington D.C. we ha the opportunity to visit the Holocaust Museum. That was a moving and profound experience. I know that William has been to Auschwitz, but I cannot be here and not go. So we find the train, get coffee as we wait, and get some local currency. Poland uses the złoty, 3-4 złoty to the dollar, not quite as confusing as the forint – but by now I just accept the currency that I need to use, and get on with it!

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Leaving the train station on our way to Auschwitz
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This is a map of the camp – Auschwitz was a labor camp, formerly an Army Barracks. Polish nationals were imprisoned in Auschwitz to be slave labor for the Nazis.

Auschwitz concentration camp was a network of German Nazi concentration camps and extermination camps built and operated by the Third Reich in Polish areas annexed by Nazi Germany during World War II. It consisted of Auschwitz I, Auschwitz II–Birkenau, Auschwitz III–Monowitz, and 45 satellite camps.

http://www.history.com/topics/world-war-ii/auschwitz

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Work is Freedom. Entry gate to Auschwitz.
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Barracks on one side, and no man’s land between the fences.

Our guide is a Polish woman who spoke of her grandparents who lived in a village near Auschwitz having their land and home taken and being deported to Germany. They were amongst the other villagers in seven surrounding villages who were either deported to Germany or arrested and placed in Auschwitz to die a slow an painful death as they labored, building the new camp at Birkenau, on roughly 200-300 calories a day. Many lasted months, but most died within weeks. Fortunately for the Nazis there were many Pole’s and other political enemies of the Reich to fill their places. The horrors that human beings experienced in all of these camps is represented here. As you walk through you see the board bunks where people slept three to a bunk, in layers of three bunks. Most had diarrhea, and other health problems, so the worse place to sleep was on the bottom bunk as everything from the top flowed down.  There are a zillion books that you can read detailing the horrors of this experience, but I have a reading list that I currently recommend:

We were the Lucky Ones Georgia Hunter

A Train Near Magdenburg Matthew A. Rozell

Youth in Flames Aliza Vitis-Shomron

The Girl with No Name Diney Costeloe

I Wish it Were Fiction Aaron Starkman

While every book is written from the perspective of the writer, as with this blog, a well rounded understanding is needed to create an image that helps with understanding of the past. My great adult revelation and understanding was that we each live our own experience. My truth is the truth for me, and it may well be different from the lived experience of someone who experiences the same time and space – that has helped me understand my siblings and their experiences in our life. So I read of experiences and while they do not form the entirety of experience, they do help put some of the pieces into the experience.

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One of the guard towers, there were guard towers every 50 yards. Living with a gun trained on you every moment, and the guards could shot whomever they wished with impunity – sometimes for the sport of it.

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This is one of the guard towers overlooking the tracks where the Jews arrived at Birkenau – The remains of the Birkenau camp is in the background
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Electrified fence surrounding the camp at Birkenau
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One of the cattle cars used to transport prisoners of the Reich -the majority being Jews, who were enemies because they were Jews. The cattle cars were filled until there was no room – everyone stood for the trip, the trip could last up to 14 days – in all types of weather.
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A memorial to the victims at Auschwitz- Birkenau. Between 1933 and 1945, Nazi Germany and its allies established more than 40,000 camps and other incarceration sites. The perpetrators used these sites for a range of purposes, including forced labor, detention of people thought to be enemies of the state, and mass murder. The total number of sites is based upon ongoing research in the perpetrators’ own records.

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Remains of Birkenau – Knowing and walking on the earth where human beings experienced these horrors are very different. I did not feel pain, and despair, just sadness that even after this, we still want to point at “others” and decided they are not worth life…we have learned nothing
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As we left the camp we ran into these teachers from a Religious School in Antwerp, Belgium. The students from the school were gathered in the camp that house women and children singing prayers for the souls of the departed. The Rabbi told us that this was his 121’st trip to Auschwitz-Birkenau.

He shared with us that he, and the other teachers were children of survivors. His mother arrived at Birkenau at age 15, accompanied by his grandmother (her mother), great-grandmother, and his aunt, age 13. He told us that when the train stopped and the door was opened, his aunt and mother jumped down together, happy to breathe fresh air after 10 days in the cattle car – his grandmother, who was also near the door stopped to assist her mother out of the cattle car as she was much older and had endured for 10 days as well. The consequence was that his aunt and mother were sent to the “live” line, and his grandmother and great-grandmother were sent to the showers. One moment, one pause – life or death.